Mountaineering Books

I spent three entire months in Ecuador, one climbing and the rest hiking and travelling. I am a moderately experienced technical climber, I pride myself in my navigation. I have travelled to many third world countries and used many guide books, some good, some you dont need. This is one you are better without.

Rob you have never climbed most of the peaks you describe, they havnt changed that much. I would have been better without this misleading guide book. I'm glad I never bumped into you after I climbed Tungurahua, or Pasachoa or Corazon.

Please do not commit to any long hikes or strenuous climbs on the information of this book alone, you will regret it.

If you ask the average Ecuadorian mountain "guide" the way up a mountain he will give you bad directions because he has never actually been there. It seems this is the type of information contained in the guide. The farther away from the road the less accurate the information gets, you have never been to half these places have you Rob.

I think it sells because it is the only one out. Go to the South american Explorers club in Quito and read the trip reports rather than buy this drivel. I though it was a good read, then I actually got to Ecuador and started using it, what a joke.

Maybe its not your fault but your name is on the cover.

Unless you are really heading for unconventional climbing, I do not recommend buying this book. You are better off surfing websites about climbing in Ecuador. Moreover, it is now out of date.

We found the guide useful while in Ecuador, but routes have changed on some of the peaks (Iliniza Norte, Chimbo). Definitely buy the book, but once in country talk to guides or South American Explorers Club about changes.

I thought this book was great for helping me discover some of good climbs and backpacking trips off the gringo trail. Many of the hikes it seems like no one explores, which I guess is a good thing. Can't wait for Columbia to settle down and hope Bradt puts together an equally good guide for that country.

We spent 2 months romping around the hills of Ecuador and this guide was indespensible. Definitely need to buy IGM maps for the more remote treks that are not on established trails. It was really fun to explore areas not ofetn visited by gringos. Ecuador is full of surprises and this guide really helped us to experience the real outdoors of the country.

This is a classic. Well told stories of the difficulties encountered climbing Everest and K2. The machismo seems to have been left far below the altitudes these climbers struggle at. These true accounts finally wind together around common threads of stress, inability to think and act rationally under extreme conditions. Minor decisions and misunderstandings result in triumph or failure.
A great book.
David Roberts has established himself as an essential source for understanding why we seek adventure and what really is there in the midst of it. I've got a list of his books and I plan to read all of it.

This attractively presented volume is a compilation of excerpts from various accounts of attempts, successful or otherwise, to climb Everest and K2. These accounts are for the most part from different English and American expeditions from the 1930s onwards, but include for variation the first-person narrative of travels through Tibet toward the fatal mountains by the widow of a fallen climber.

Some expeditions take a massive army-style assault on the peaks, using complicated supply chains, support teams, hundreds of Sherpas, and tons of equipment. This is sort of the "Humanity Conquers Nature" approach. Others plan for basically a sprint up the mountain, traveling light with minimal support and small groups, and eschewing the use of oxygen cylinders and fancy gadgetry. This is the "Triumph of the Will" approach. These purists are always keen on trying routes no one else has attempted, and they avoid using the ladders and fixed ropes and stuff left by previous expeditions.

It's that latter style of climbing that has become especially dangerous, because once someone has reached the pinnacle without oxygen, the bar has been dramatically raised, and anyone who follows and doesn't try the same looks weak. So ever-escalating feats of bravado must necessarily follow, where it won't be long before we'll see accomplishments such as "first to climb Everest while naked" or something like that.

While there are a number of gripping scenes related in this book, there's also a great deal of repetition. A whole lot of verbiage is devoted to, essentially, "Man, it's cold up there!" So we read again and again about firing up stoves and snuggling into sleeping bags and taking an hour to put on boots and the like. There's also a lot of technical language to be encountered, which is likely to be appreciated more by climbers than the layperson, who has to wade through a lot of "I jumared down the fixed 5mm rope across a transverse field of powder to reach the couloir beyond cul that led to the cwm". Climbers will be nodding knowingly; armchair adrenaline junkies will be scratching their heads. (Note that a glossary of terms is hidden at the back of the book where it does no one any good.)

Ultimately, the most interesting tales prove to be those where the climbers hate each other and fall into bitter bickering over who gets to make the dash to the top, or who fouled up and ruined everything. The mountains have many ways to kill people, but a lot of the tragedies are of the "and they were never seen again" variety. I'm not advocating that we should be exposed voyeuristically to all of the gory details of horrible deaths, but most of the disasters are rather pallidly rendered, and frankly the human drama ends up being more interesting than hearing again and again about the interesting technical challenges of getting over the Abruzzi Ridge or whatever.

An assortment of maps would have helped immensely.

I very much enjoyed and highly recommend this book. I've read many of the books from which these chapters are selected, yet there was much fresh material for me. The editing was so masterful that even though the chapters are from different writers, mountains, and times, they flowed together seamlessly

High does for climbing what the movie The Thin Red Line did for combat: It explores not the details of the event, but the inner thoughts of the participants. You read what it feels like to have a climber dying in a tent next to you. You learn about the humilation of having frostbite while back at home. You are with the widows who trek in the paths of their husbands to glimpse the mountain graves of their loved ones.

While I can understand that some reviewers felt the selections dropped one into the middle of a big problem high on a mountain without the broader context of the expedition, I didn't feel this was a problem. I don't need the beginning, middle, and end to enjoy a brief tale. There are plenty of books that give all those details, yet few that are gripping to read from the first page to the last.

This is the first book i've read that was a collection of excerpts from other books. It is a real page turner and you will work through it quickly, desperately wanting more non-fiction adventure reading to follow. Well anyways, just buy it. you won't be disappointed.

Like all of you who read this review,you're Everest junkies who probably won't even get near this mountain, but are hooked on all books about it.
High; Stories of survival from Everest and K2 is NOT what you're looking for. This book is nothing but one-chapter excerpts from other books. It's like walking into a movie half way through: You have no idea what's going on. Also, there are no maps of either Everest or K2, so if writers of these chapters (and some of them are BORING writers!) describe trouble on Everest's north col or K2's Abruzzi ridge, we can't picture these places in our minds.
This book (unlike all the other Everest books I bought and immediately read) has been sitting on my bedstand for months. I only read it when I wake up at 3AM and can't go back to sleep. Just reading from this book puts me back to sleep reeeeeal fast!
Don't bother with this one. The Everest season is happening right now. Maybe more books will come from this year's hikers.

I was glued to this book from the first page to the last! What a thriller and it is true! Truly one of Jack Olsen's finest works.

I bought this book last monday and started it that night,just couldnt put it down,keeped my on the edge of my seat and I couldnt wait to find out what happened next.I came away from this book with a better understanding of what drives men,at the risk of their own lives,to climb such mountains as the Eiger.Well done Mr,Olsen
A great read

A great story, poorly told. I am an avid outdoorsman and reader; the subject matter of this book is very interesting. Unfortunately, Mr. Olsen wrote this book in a time when it seemed to be fasionable to dazzle one's audience with one's vocabulary. I have not read any of Mr. Olsen's other books, but hopefully he has matured to a less snobbish style in his later works. If you are interested in mountaineering history and don't mind being confronted with an author's "look how smart I am" delivery, read this book. Otherwise, you too may be put off as I was.

This is a fast-moving account of a true and avoidable mountaineering accident and the ensuing rescue efforts. The author holds back the real story about the apparent culprit (assuming there is one) until the very end. Fans of classic mountaineering literature written by technically experienced mountaineers will not find everything they're looking for here. Those looking for a good read will.

A friend of mine is a big fan of Jack Olsen, and suggested that I read this book first as I'm interested in climbing. Since reading it, I can't wait to read his other books. Its unfair to dismiss this book simply because Olson is a true-crime writer - why does this genre get such a bad wrap? Not only is it an exciting account of the events, but you begin to feel for all the people involved. I was so interested in the lives of the rescued/rescuers that I did a search on them right after reading the book and learned as much about them as I could. I highly reccomend this book.

An outstanding work. Thorough. Carefully, Clearly, Consisely written and illustrated to present the climber the best information on the mountain. The authors are without peer in climbling knowledge and skills and present their Rainier experience well. The clear aerial photos and clearly marked routes on the photos inspired my efforts to train harder for my climb. I recently climbed Rainier, my first visit to the mountain, and this guide kept me right on route, even in winter. Thanks Amazon, and Beckey and Van Steen too!

This Rainier guide presents much of the same information found in the original "Cascade Alpine Guide" (almost verbatum). It has a number of new and interesting photos, however, the route descriptions are short on details and the layout is a bit disorganized.

This is a good guidebook for those who already know a lot about climbing Mount Rainier.

I've climbed Rainier 35 times via 18 routes and this book hits the nail on the head! For years I was happy enough that there were no guides exclusively for Mt. Rainier - I felt as if the Mountain were mine - but then I know that's a common feeling shared by many because of our love for the Mountain. I was skeptical when this guidebook was released - but, whoa! - its definately on track. The descriptions are clear and accurate, and the photos do a great job of sharing the "feel" of the routes. The overlays are exceptional, large enough to be really useful and readable. I took a look at desriptions of some of the more popular routes (I've climbed the Emmons Galcier, Kautz, Disappointment Cleaver, Gibraltar Ledges and Liberty Ridge routes several times each) and they are dead on accurate. It was great to see good descriptions of some of the more uncommon routes also like Kautz Cleaver, Kautz Headwall and Edmunds Headwall. Even with this "advertising," I don't think these routes will become "overcrowded" any time soon. The book, overall, left me with a very positive feeling, and I'm anxious to try more routes. The book is a welcome edition to my library, and an excellent resource for climbers who want to explore the Mountain!

If you want a big name draw, and lots of old pictures meant to impress rather than inform, than this is your book. This book seemed like it was rushed and not at all put together as well as others I have seen. Although Beckey is undoubtably a climbing guru around these parts, I have never associated his name with Rainier. As for the other author, I am sure he is quite qualified at writing a guide for the one route he "sheepherds" clients up in the summer, but heck I could regurgitate route descriptions from other books also. After reading this book I was left wondering whether or not somebody's savings account was rapidly dwindling and needed immediate damage control. This book will get you by, but when lives are on the line I want the best, and this folks ain't it.

The book had little juicy content of what it is like to climb Rainier. If you've already climbed it and are looking for more challenging routes, that this is your book. If you are a first time climber, this book will probably fall short of your expectations.

I read this book when it first came out. As someone who's familiar with Aspen's team, and who's been involved in mountain search and rescue in Colorado for many years, I found Hal's book to paint a pretty good picture of what it's like to be involved in mountain rescue work.

However, like a previous reviewer, I feel it's rather arrogant. Hal pumps-up Aspen's team while putting down other agencies, and I feel there are some questionable comments in the book related to this. There are many fine EMS agencies and rescue teams in Colorado (..and elsewhere) of the same caliber as Aspen's team. This book should have been more humble in that regard.

Otherwise, I recommend it for anyone interested in this topic.

The falling season is a tough book to review, since I am involved in SAR work, not in Colorado though. First off the author is an excellent writer and keeps the book moving along. He gets into the personalities of the team members and when you do SAR work you realize that it is the interrelationships of the team personal that make or breaks your team. I think Mr. Clifford does a good job in detailing the day to day nuances of the characters in the book.

I also think that he portrays a realistic look at the tensions that arise between the NEEDED paramilitary Sheriffs department and the free-spirited rescuers. The facts are that the SAR Teams are going to become more and more under the direct aegis of the Sheriff departments. That means more liability issues will be raised and in turn more Certifications will be needed to be a member of any SAR team. While this may be a noble objective it also had the direct dilemma of ostracizing the competent members on any SAR team. I have seen it happen, so sometimes the net result is a SAR team will lose some competent people only to be replaced by individuals that have passed the minimum sheriffs department certifications. While technically these individuals are qualified to perform a rescue they are as inept as any mountain neophyte is and in most cases a liability to the team. But this is the wave of the future and a reason why the author sees SAR teams being staffed only by paid people.

One caveat for the any Non SAR person. This book does glamorize the work and makes it seem as non-stop action. I understand that the book has to do this otherwise it would be a bore to read. But real SAR work can be tedious and hard, no limelight, many days spent traipsing through buckthorn or on the side of some rattlesnake-infested ridge. You will come home on many days, dirty and tired, with fresh scrapes on your hands and faces oozing blood, just wondering just why you were assigned to search that area? But in the end it's always worth it.

This book starts with a great, well painted rescue. Most of the remainder of the book then focuses on the egos and personal conflicts of the team and sheriff. "He said this and she said that and I said this." As a member of a busy SAR team, I was amazed at (and saddened by) how poorly the team and Sheriff got along. I also question the pseudo-conclusion that rescue teams will become paid services.

If you are looking for insight into the personal relationships the make up a rescue community, you will like this book.

in Search and Rescue and this could have been any SAR team, any County, USA. The general press gets us wrong every time but Hal got it right. Thank you for a sometimes tearful, often funny and believable read of one of the many sides of a multi-faceted SAR team. PS: the past pres. should get over it!

Tha Falling Season gives readers an inside look at the operations of one of America's best rescue teams, Aspen Mountain Rescue. This fast paced book also lets us inside the personal lives of several key team members and shows us the triumphs and conflict that inevitably exist in such groups. Truly an excellent book for anyone interested in search and rescue and outdoor sports or mountaineering.

This is an excellent book for planning trips in the Southwest. My wife and I used it for a three week tour based in Albuquerque and going on excursions that included Petroglyph, NM, Acoma Res., El Malpais, El Morro, Canyon de Chelly, and Chaco Culture NHP. We found the time estimates in the book to be far short of the time we spend touring an area and/or a destination. Unless you do "New York Minute" tours you will need to double many of the time allotments in the book. That said, the book is excellent for an overview of things to see and do in an area. It can serve as the one book to plan your trip and to take along with you.

The best characteristic of this hiking book is that it is more focused on the day hiker than the backpacker, describing an abundance of shorter and easier hikes than the average hiking guide catering to the young and strong. Longer hikes are here; but there's plenty also for the duffer, i.e. yours truly.

Hinchman describes 160 hikes in the deserts and canyons of the Four Corners region of New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado, and Utah, including the Grand Canyon and several magnificient National Parks in Utah. Along the way she also points in the direction of other lesser known walks. For example, despite my familiarity with New Mexico, I never knew that Petroglyph National monument just outside Albuquerque had good short hikes. I'll visit there next trip.

Along with all the good, I have a complaint that the guide is somewhat difficult to use, divided as it is into six different, sometimes overlapping "tours." I had to search for a while to find hikes in Mesa Verde which were placed in Chapter IV rather than Chapter V which seemed a equally logical place to find them. Once you get the hang of the author's methods and madness, however, the guide is easily usable. An improvement would be a map showing the location of hikes described and a less complex numbering system.

Smallchief

I got this book at my local REI, it was the best they had on the four corners area. That said, it falls short of the standards set by many other hiking or travel books:

1. I wish the maps were better. It made me think that most of the famous arches in Arches NP were in the Fiery Furnace area, while in fact they are not there -- just the map is rather crude.
2. I wish it had better overall area maps with clearly marked areas of interest etc. Something to help better plan your trip if you only have a long weekend at your disposal. The book is organized instead in multi-day linear itineraries which seemed at best arbitrary and useless to me.
3. Does not mention (beyond a couple of sentences) some obvious top spots like Antelope Canyon and other slot canyons in Arizona.
4. No ratings of hikes according to scenic-ness. Many other books do this and I appreciate it. Although the SW is usually great, some hikes and sights are way more impressive than others.
5. Black-and-white photos of the colorful Southwest (almost a crime!), and no photos of many of the landmarks...

In a nutshell, you should already know where you want to go (from reading on internet etc) and then pick up this book to glean some more detail. And then go again on the internet and search some more to determine if the specific sights are worth it.

UPDATE (July 2007):

After my second consecutive trip to the Southwest, I am impressed how comprehensive this book is. If something is worth *hiking* it will be in there, and sometimes the directions to the trailhead will be better than the "official" ones in the BLM / NPS leaflets. So my opinion of the book is somewhat higher, plus its idiosyncrasies grew on me.

That said, the weaknesses remain:

- organization is abysmal (although the index in the back helps a bit)
- maps are relatively bad
- not enough photos, B/W mostly, quality is rel. low

This is an unusual guidebook, in that the author lays out a series of suggested itineraries for the Colorado Plateau country, sized for a 2-3 week vacation. This would be an ideal guidebook for a first-time hiker-visitor to the US Southwest. But old hands won't feel left out, or condescended to -- Hinchman writes clearly and directly, and knows her stuff. She notes that her guidebook is directed towards the "non-jock" reader.

I've been to many of the places and specific hikes that she recommends, and I saw no errors, though I haven't yet used her guidebook in the field. The cartography, by Hannah Hinchman, is unusually good for a small-format guidebook. About the only flaw I noted was that about half of the color photos are poorly reproduced. The text index is sketchy, but the index maps are excellent. Previous Mountaineers guidebooks have been sturdily-bound and hold up well in the field. Highly recommended.

Happy hiking--
Peter D. Tillman
Desert Rat

This guide is excellent in many respects: the maps are well-drawn without drowning in detail, the multi-day itineraries are useful (but by no means necessary and can be broken into day trips), and the descriptions of the trails and the many photos let you know that you are on track. (Never underestimate the utility of a good photo to help you get your bearings.)

This is a hiker's guidebook--thick paper and glossy covers ensure it can handle occasional moisture and repeated stuffings into packs. The book's strengths are is comprehensiveness and its detail. The focus is on the southwest canyon country--a large area indeed, but nearly every worthy hike is discussed and each with enough detail to ensure no highlights are missed.

Finally, the author provides a good summary of the archaeological finds--including the amazing, ancient petroglyphs and pictographs--you will see along the way. If you are going to be hiking in the canyon country of the southwest, this is the book to have.

The canyons of North America are among the most spectacular in the world, providing unlimited opportunities for hikers, photographers, climbers, and other modern day adventurers. John Annerino offers a thorough guide to the fundamentals of safe and well prepared canyon exploration. The natural history and earth science of canyon country, as well as expedition conditioning, preperation, and equipment are discussed in detail, as are potential hazards and how to avoid them. -The Adventurous Traveler

There are some great reviews of this book at Amazon. I love canyoneering. The book wasn't expensive through third parties (probably a sign of the poor quality). I decided to get it. It was a mistake. I don't understand why there are any good reviews of it.

With regard to the "how to" part of canyoneering it is a complete waste of time - poor or little information. For example, the author likes to use iodine tablets for water purification and promotes them over a purifier. However, Chlorine Dioxide (e.g., Aquamira) is more effective, leaves no taste, and is also lightweight - it isn't mentioned as a far superior alternative. Polyester isn't mentioned for clothing but polypropylene is. The book was published in 1999. These are just two of numerous such examples. Maybe the author hiked these canyons when he was a kid. This doesn't belong in a 1999 book.

With regard to the history, geology, etc. It is just all over the place with serial lists of factoids arrange without organization. As an example, the page on the geology of Buckskin Gulch and Paria Canyon has four paragraphs. The first doesn't mention either canyon. The second mentions Paria along with various other canyons as having a "dark side" in the second to last sentence (nothing to do with geology, just that they are prone to flash flooding). The third short paragraph is about slot canyons generally and doesn't mention either canyon. The fourth finally has something on Paria and Buckskin geology - the geological formations found in the area - so impressive.

I could go on, but this book isn't worth more effort.

This book is not a guide book or even a how to book but rather a hodgepodge of history, biology, geology ect. If you want to sit at home and read a little about the southwest this is your book, if you actually want to go out and explore get Canyoneering Arizona by Tyler Williams or any of the books by Michael R. Kelsey.

As a two year resident of Arizona, I have embraced the wonder of the Grand Canyon and it's tributaries. This book ties together its legend, geology, hydrology and the spritiual. It erodes the sandstone and runs with ancients. Mr.Annerino has obviously been there, lived it as few have and was profoundly influenced by. Way to go.

The book was interesting for somebody wanting to learn and become familiar with canyoneering and dessert hiking. However, in terms of providing practical data on good hikes, it is far behind any of Steve Allen's books. If you're new to this, then buy this and Steve's. If you've been there and done this, no need to reread the basics.

The third-party seller of this product grossly misrepresented the condition. As a result of severe moisture damage and stuck pages, I couldn't really read the book.

I was looking to improve my rock climbing abilities to prepare for the spring. This book is definiately informative with a clear and concise overview of what works and what is fad.

I initially purchased this book without hesitation upon recognizing Clyde Soles' name and recalling his excellent work as the gear editor for "Rock and Ice." And while he has done an excellent job of amassing a wide variety of information and adjusting it to a climbers needs, none of the material presented is really that original or profound. The bottom line of this books is eat healthy, train both aerobically and anaerobically, and supplement your climbing with strength training. I would reccommend this book for someone new to climbing and looking to set the foundation for good health and climbing. More experienced climbers looking for an additional edge or those with a solid understanding of the principles of health and fitness, however, should look elsewhere.

There are numerous training books for sport climbers who want to send 5.13 or boulder V12. But this is the only book for everyone else. It's a great resource for alpinists, big wall climbers, weekend 5.8 craggers, and most other outdoor athletes. This takes the training and nutrition chapters in Mark Twight's "Extreme Alpinism" to the next level with far more content and detailed explanations. It offers practical advice and emphasizes time efficiency and having fun for a healty lifestyle. Definitely a good book for almost any climber!

I had been climbing for a while, and wanting to get better. When I started to train with climbing in mind, I really didn't know where to start. So, I did the usual things and felt frustrated. Fortunately I came across this book. It really answers questions, is immensely practical, and is a pleasant read. If you want to climb stronger, get this book.

Well-written, comprehensive, shrewd in it appraisals, concise in its descriptions of the manifold climbs, and not afraid to treat the politics, squabbles and jealousies that surrounded so many of the events described. The last few chapters do become monotonous, offering too much of a good things, but the book is superb on the important climbs and climbers: Mallory, Irvine, Hillary, Shipton, Messner, and even outsiders like Maurice Wilson are brought vividly to life. This book will stand as the standard treatment of the pursuit of the Everest Summit. The snowboarders, paragliders and skiers as well as the commercial expeditions have vulgarized it all, but this book brings us back to a time when the sacred and mysterious mountain stood in aloof resistance to a heroic band of special men.

At first, I was a bit sceptic about this book. I thought it would be another detailed-and-boring book about conquest of highest mountain, a bit of sensationalism, otherwise dry. But, after just few pages, I changed my thought completely. It was not dry, at all, it has many, really interesting information, which are not here just to build interest and boist author's knowlege. Author often express his thinking about some people in rather straight way, which I find more useful than writing just about their "purest virtues" - all people have flaws, and these are often very expressed in such extreme situations. It gives more information on first three British expeditions than one specialized book on this subject, I've read before, as well as on first succesful expedition in 1953. These expeditions are covered very well. Expeditions 1980 to present are a bit less covered, which is understandable as they took place after first edition of book was published. I also noticed certain degree of reservation vs non-Western climbers; it seems as author wishes not to offend anyone, but deeply in soul he has some doubts about their honesty. That's why I can't give 5th star to this one. Otherwise, I recommend it to everyone interested in mountain climbing history.

It was pretty appalling to read that in '78 Everest was climbed by:

'Polish houswife called Wanda Rutkiewitz'

She was neither a housewife nor her name was Rutkiewitz. In fact her name was Rutkiewicz, she held electronics engineering degree and was one of the most accomplished female climbers in the world (first female ascent of K2 among others).

Hope the rest of the book is more accurate.

Walt Unsworth's history of Everest is certainly comprehensive. One might say exhaustive. Every attempt on the world's highest mountain from the pre-war British expeditions (which are covered in great detail) to the commercial climbs of the 1990s (which are not) are recorded and put in context. When it comes to climbing history, I doubt that this weighty tome can be bettered. My only gripes are that the ordering of the history (not strictly chronological) is a little difficult to follow - unless one reads the whole 700+ pages in order, and, although admittedly meant as a mountaineering history, there could have been more geographical detail on the features of the mountain (though the maps of ascent routes are very good), and there could have been more analysis of individual acheivements and the thorny issues that have surrounded climbing. Conclusion: brilliant encyclopedia; a little short on criticism.

Walt Unsworth has provided an excellent historical text. The descriptions are vivid with sufficient attention to details that paint clear pictures of the events surrounding Everest. The background information about the bureaucratic bunglings of the British is intriguing and Unsworth masterfully builds to the climax of the first triumphant ascent. I have read several books on Everest and this document helps to put so many of the pieces together and give the reader correct perspective.

As other reviews have mentioned, you get a little bit of everything in this book, and I think that's what it is good for.

I picked this book up when I was moving from a beginning top rope/gym climber to a more advanced multi-pitch trad climber. This booked helped me know what concepts I had a strong grasp on, and what concepts I needed to study further.

If you are already comfortable with your climbing technique then there are many better books such as those published by "The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series".

If you know you still have a few things to learn, then by all means, pick up this book and you will get a good idea of what you do and don't know.

These books (how to climb series)are a must for the climber who doesn't allways have a lot of experienced people around. Many great tips. good for referencing back to. Good explanations. And even enjoyable to read.

Long has done it again. A.R.C. goes through the more advanced maneuvers of climbing. It is a must have for climbers who want to be more than a indoor or weekend climber, and who want to be able to climb more than 5.9 TR's.

I get acrophobia just from standing on a deep-pile carpet, so this isn't something I'm ever going to do myself, but I still found it interesting to read about it. I think the people who do this are some of the bravest people I know (as well as probably being completely nuts. :-)). Just looking at some of the pictures showing climbers going up almost featureless, smooth, sheer walls along a little crack set my heart to pounding a little bit.

The book contains a wealth of detail and information on rock climbing and much space is devoted to climbing techniques and strategies. I didn't know there were so many different kinds of grips and holds one could perform, and how they'd been adapted to specific situations and needs, but it was very interesting reading about that, and I discuss some of that further below.

The book is divided into seven chapters: Face Climbing, Crack Climbing, Rapelling, Sport Climbing, Adventure Climbing (this was one of the most interesting chapters), Training, and Self-Rescue.

Each outdoor sport has its own special vernacular and and special skills and techniques and rock climbing is no different. As I said, there's so much info here it would be hard to pick and choose a topic, but I did want to mention one thing I found interesting, which was the crack climbing and crack skills. The authors say you have to become "crack fluent" and must develop at least some competence in this since they point out that historical big walls and free routes invariably follow crack systems. To become a true "crack-master" requires patience, practice, and technique. Cracks vary greatly. Some cracks are so small that all you can do is use fingers jams. Other cracks are bigger and you can get your whole hand in the crack and use a hand or a fist jam, and several of those are discussed too.

Cracks are noted for requiring "an even combination of applied technique and physical enfurance." One of the special techniques for very narrow cracks is the "finger stack" and "butterfly jam." In the former you put your hand into the crack and stack the index. middle, and ring fingers against one another and vigorously twist downward. The butterfly jam involves placing the thumb into the crack and stacking the fingers against it. These are just a few of the dozens of special techniques that were discussed and that I learned about in this book. All of the different finger and hand jams and other techniques are fully illustrated so you can see exactly what's going on.

The authors also spend some time discussing the dangers of free-soloing and climbing in general. One author (C.L.) said he knows 14 climbers who had died in the last 6 years alone. This sobering statistic certainly points up the dangers of rock climbing, and yet the authors say that more and more people are being attracted into the sport. So as I said, while I doubt I'll ever try this myself, I found it interesting to read about and learn something about what's involved.

This is an excellent book on the subject which will be of use mainly to already experienced and skilled participants in this interesting and exciting but very risky sport.

This book gives a little bit of information about a lot of different topics. Therefore, you may find a tidbit here or there that adds to your knowledge. However, because the book covers so many topics, the amount of in depth detail is very limited. For this reason, rather than getting this book, I would prefer to spend my money getting more specialized books on specific climbing topics rather than trying to get a little bit about everything from this book. If this is the only advanced climbing book you are going to buy and your experienced friends can fill in the blanks, then it would be a good introductory book for you.