Mountaineering Books


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Mountaineering Books sorted by Average customer review: high to low .

Mountaineering
Beyond the Summit: Setting and Surpassing Extraordinary Business Goals
Published in Hardcover by Portfolio Hardcover (2003-10-27)
Author: Todd Skinner
List price: $24.95
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Collectible price: $24.95

Average review score:

Beyond the Summit is Beyond Expectations
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2008-06-15
In brief, Todd's mountain climbing analogy to the achievement of business excellence is an easy read with powerful implications. Applied in business or personal circumstances will yield extraordinary results. This book is not about setting BHAG-type goals. It is about setting extremely high targets, building an awesome team based on potential (not past results), valuing a thought process not the volume knowledge, being flexible in adjusting the "ascent" based on what the "mountain" is telling us and above all understanding the dynamics of people and challenges. This is not one of those typical airport bookstore management-leadership books, this is a roadmap to organizational and personal success.

Beyond the Summit: Setting and Surpassing Extraordinary Business Goals
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 2007-02-21
I have no interest whatsoever in mountain climbing! Yet, I was fascinated with this "cliff hanger!" Most importantly, I had much to learn from it. The lessons I learned from Mr. Skinner's book about mountain climbing are equally relavant to obtaining any life goal, from raising good children to writing a book. Everyone can benefit from this read.

Can Change Your Thinking
Helpful Votes: 4 out of 5 total.
Review Date: 2004-04-15
Todd Skinner has written a book that invites you to change how you think about challenges and obstacles. Especially pertinent were his specifics such as considering "measuring your progress from where you are to the summit" instead of where you began. There are several "aha" moments to be found in Beyond the Summit that do not ask you to understand a complex model of management or leadership, that are quite profound and immediately useful. Practical and inspirational.

Powerful, challenging, inspiring
Helpful Votes: 4 out of 5 total.
Review Date: 2004-03-29
Is there a better metaphor for success in your endeavors than mountain climbing? So if you want the ultimate in success why not study the ultimate in mountain climbing. The lessons that Todd Skinner brings down from the summit are striking, challenging and forcefully introspective. Having read "Beyond the Summit" I found myself frequently putting the book down long enough to ask myself where I might find my personal 'first ascension.' An incredible book with a powerful story and life-changing lessons.

Fantastic
Helpful Votes: 5 out of 5 total.
Review Date: 2004-01-22
Having just heard Todd speak, I must say, he is by far one of the most influential people I have ever heard in person.

Mountaineering
To the Summit
Published in Library Binding by Bt Bound (1999-10)
Author: Claire Rudolf Murphy
List price: $12.00

Average review score:

it's GREAT!!!!!!!
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2004-12-18
In this book Sarah gets to go up Denali,the highest mt. in N.America.She learns that she can do many things(even if she's afraid).The book teaches you that you can do anything even if it is hard.You have to read To the Summit.

A Life Changing Book
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2002-11-13
This book inspired me so much. It touched me because I am a child of divorce just as Sarah was. The book made me feel like I was on Denali- talking to Gabe and listening to Sam sing his joyful tunes. Now I know what I'm going to do with my life. I'm going to climb. Thank you, Mrs.Murphy. It was a wonderful book that touched my greatly.

This is an excilent book
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2001-08-26
I thought that To The Summit was an excilent book. It really opens your eyes to what you can acomplish if you have the determination and mentalability to put you mind to it. Sarah is a 17 year old girl that has the dream of reaching the summit of Denail and beening the youngest person to clime North Americas highest mountain. I thought that the book was great and would highly recamend it.

WOW!
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2000-05-04
It is an excellent book that I enjoyed reading, I am even reading it again. It shows that with determination and a positive attiude, even a 17-year old girl can over come the challenge, both metally and physically of climbing North America's largest mountain. Not only getting stronger phyiscally , Sarah was brought closer to her father, and her life. Once again I have to say 'WOW! '.

An adventurous 17 year old girl climbs Mt. Denali.
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 1999-10-01
As 17 year old Sarah climbs Mt. McKinley, known now as Mt. Denali, in Alaska, she discovers some strengths in herself and becomes closer to her father. Story line is excellent, however the dialog and rhythm of the book is a bit stilted. Very east to the distracted. This book should be of interest to student in the 6th, 7th, and 8th grades who are interested in outdoor adventures.

Mountaineering
White Mountain Guide
Published in Paperback by Appalachian Mountain Club Books (1998-07-01)
Author: Appalachian Mountain Club Books
List price: $21.95
New price: $17.99
Used price: $4.95
Collectible price: $21.95

Average review score:

best mountain guide out there
Helpful Votes: 1 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 2002-07-18
I have three books in my cabin. The Holy Bible, The Complete Walker, and The White Mountain Guide. They are all you need.

Still the Bible of New England Hiking
Helpful Votes: 11 out of 11 total.
Review Date: 2001-05-18
You may rail against some of the trail descriptions after finishing a bruising hike that had not been described as such in the Guide.Many breathtaking views are described matter-of-factly. Still, no serious New England hiker, beginner or fanatic, should be without the AMC's White Mountain Guide. It is unmatched for thoroughness and save for a few gaffes, accuracy. Moreover, unlike the also fine "50 Hikes" series by Backcountry Publications or "New England Hiking" by Michael Lanza, the AMC Guide leaves enough unsaid to allow for the best kind of discovery - your own on the trail. There is more than adequate information, though, for planning and safety. I have only two complaints stemming from unfortunate changes made in the most recent addition: (1) the book is larger and no longer fits neatly into a backpack - an odd choice for a hiking book; (2) southern New Hampshire hikes, many fine half day choices, are now covered in a separate book, the "Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide." Despite the AMC's tinkering with what wasn't broken, the AMC Guide still serves the N.H. White Mountain hiker better than any other book.

All you need for a trip to the White Mountains
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 2003-09-29
I just returned from my first trip to the White Mountains, and this book was the best thing I took with me. I stuck to day-hikes only, and found the information in the book to be the most helpful guide I had. The beginning gives an overview of the region, and tips for anyone planning to hike in the White Mountains. I'm glad I bought the book before I arrived, so I was able to make sure I had the necessary equipment to keep me safe and comfortable on my hikes. Experienced hikers may not need the advice, but novice hikers and those not accustomed to the perils of hiking above the treeline will appreciate it.

The rest of the book is devoted to trail descriptions. Lots of them. Although I carried the book and the maps with me on every hike, I found the information was most useful when I was planning my hikes. Once I found the trails (with the help of the guide), they were so well marked that I didn't need to consult the maps. I also used the maps throughout my trip, even when I wasn't hiking. I didn't need to purchase a road map since everything I needed was included.

After I had hiked a trail or two, I learned to "interpret" the descriptions, and figure out what would be the challenging sections of trails. The description of the first hike I choose didn't sound too tough, but I found myself hanging onto a boulder with only one hand and calling my husband back to help me. The description of this section is simply: "leaving the trees, it climbs over open rocks.." There are a few trails that come with serious cautions, such as the paragraph devoted to the Huntington Ravine Trail on the side of Mt. Washington.

The one odd thing lacking from the book is the fact that AMC operates shuttles that can take hikers down from the summit of Mt. Washington (for a fee, and providing the summit isn't closed to auto traffic). I descended on foot, but it seems strange that an AMC book overlooks an AMC service, especially since all of the other AMC operations are mentioned.

The book has a few suggested hikes for each area of the White Mountains, broken down into easy, moderate, and hard. Since this was my first visit, I stuck to these trails. I found them all to be enjoyable.

I can't wait to return, for more hiking. This book makes it possible. Anyone going to the area should purchase it prior to arriving, and keep it handy at all times.

essential
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 4 total.
Review Date: 2002-04-20
i actually read this book for fun. my copy is extremely dogeared and annotated. it is my guide to life.

This is the bible
Helpful Votes: 8 out of 8 total.
Review Date: 2001-09-11
This is indeed the bible of White Mountains hiking, and is particularly recommended for anyone attempting a multi-day hike and/or a hike above treeline. Not much I can add to what others have said, except that for casual hikes and dayhikes you should really check out White Mountains Map Book of New Hampshire and Maine (Hiking Maps and Guides) by Steve Bushey, Angela Faeth (Illustrator), Steve Smith (Editor), which has a superb map and brief descriptions of the most popular day trails.

Mountaineering
Altitude Illness: Prevention & Treatment (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)
Published in Paperback by Mountaineers Books (2005-09)
Author: Stephen Bezruchka
List price: $8.95
New price: $4.62
Used price: $5.09

Average review score:

DON'T CLIMB WITHOUT THIS BOOK!!
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2008-07-21
This is a great small pocket book. It's meant to carried with you while you climb. Has everything you need to help prevent and treat different types of Altitude Illness.

Going High?
Helpful Votes: 1 out of 1 total.
Review Date: 2007-07-30
If you are going on up to the mountains, this book may be of some value to you since you or those around you could be subject to altitude sickness. It seems prudent to know about since the consequences can be serious. The book is small enough to fit into your pack or even pocket easily. The book does a good job describing the symptoms and treatments for the disease. I plan to keep mine with my first aid supplies.

DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT...
Helpful Votes: 10 out of 10 total.
Review Date: 2001-02-24
This is a wonderful, well written and well organized little book, sized to travel with its owner. It fits easily into one's pocket for easy access. It provides valuable information at one's fingertips. One should read this book before climbing or trekking above 7,000 feet (2,000 meters). It could save one's life.

The book is chock full of valuable information, and everything is explained in laymen's language. It explains what altitude sickness is, so that one may recognize its presence, and advises the reader on how to prevent it. It also provides treatment information for the various types of altitude illnesses to which one may fall prey.

This is a must have book for anyone who wants to stay healthy while scaling new heights. If one should think that this book is unnecessary, one need only pause to reflect upon the dedication found on the flyleaf of the book, "To those who died of altitude sickness". Enough said!

Concise and Authoratative
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 2005-10-17
Stephen Bezruchka really doesn't want you to die of altitude illness, and this feeling permeates his new edition of Altitude Illness: Prevention and Treatment. Fortunately, anyone who reads this book will have all the knowledge they need to make the right decisions and avoid a tragic outcome. Altitude illness is common, easily recognizable, and there is no need to die from this cause. Unfortunately, as his very vivid case reports demonstrate, if you try hard enough, or make enough wrong decisions, it is possible to die from altitude illness. Anyone planning a high altitude sojourn could benefit from the knowledge in this compact book.

The book to bring to altitude
Helpful Votes: 7 out of 8 total.
Review Date: 2000-09-04
I just returned from a 6 000 meter climb (OK, 5 890...) and found this little book very helpful. Dr. Bezruchka gives us exactly the information needed, in clear concise form. There are flow-charts that help you assess the condition of your companions, or yourself. For a little fun around the camp pass the book around and try to pick out the authors little tiny gems of very dry wit -- not as easy as it sounds, but they are there...

Mountaineering
Blind Corners: Adventures on Everest and the World's Tallest Peaks
Published in Paperback by The Lyons Press (2002-10)
Author: Geoff Tabin
List price: $16.95
New price: $7.95
Used price: $3.75
Collectible price: $16.95

Average review score:

More surprises
Helpful Votes: 1 out of 1 total.
Review Date: 2002-12-23
Having read and enjoyed the first edition of Blind Corners, I became curious about the second edition from the comments Amazon.com provides. Sure enough, I am glad I ordered it. Tabin's encounters with the people of the Himalayas are unique since his adventures now include the way in which medical care is usually given there and the amazing way in which he and his team manage to cure blindness there. As another reviewer says, this read inspires me to think of adventure, and at the same time doing good, in my everyday life. It surpises me to be thinking about my life because of a book that is so much fun.

What a great book!
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 2002-11-29
This book caught me by surprise. I would not have noticed this book on my own, as the title does not grab me. However a friend recommended it to me, and I like adventure books, so I picked it up. It is extremely well written, taking the reader along on fast paced and humerous adventures-from Africa to Antarctica to New Guinea; from the invention of Bungee Jumping to scaling the last unclimbed face of Mt Everest. So on one level it works brilliantly as a fast paced, interconnected collection of short stories describing amazing and crazy adventures by the author and by a cross section of his amazing and crazy acquaintances. But it is more than that. As I read the various vignettes, I found myself viewing adventuring from the unique perspective of the author. Not "thrill seeking", but as a life long quest to maximize life's experiences while maintaing deep respect for the physical and human landscapes encountered along the way. It also gave me a deeper understanding of the events and personalities that led to the recent tragedies on Mount Everest, a view perhaps clearer and certainly different from that gained by reading "Into Thin Air". Finally I was extremely impressed by the authors description towards the end of the book of the author's recent efforts to cure cataract blindess among the peoples of the Himalayas. These passages are not written as self-aggrandizing, but rather continue the themes of the rest of the book, atking the reader into a different part of the world with both humor and insight. Throughout, the book emphasizes that one does not need to go to the ends of the world or be a world-class athlete to live adventures. By the end, the adventure stories and the descriptions of the humanitarian efforts together left me inspired to think about my own life and how I might try to maximize my own fun quotient and perhaps do more good at the same time. Any book that leaves you rethinking your own life while fantasizing about doing more has to be at the top ones read list. This is a wonderful book-and given its limited exposure, it is a hidden gem.

Blind Corners is pure joy
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 2002-11-10
Blind Corners is the most fun adventure book I have read in a long time! It sucked me in from the start, had me laughing out loud and held me in suspense. I did not put it down until I finished. My only complaint was that it was too short. I wanted more. It brings you along for a wide range of adventures from the invention of Bungee Jumping to the first ascent of a new route on Mt. Everest to starting an eye hospital in a remote area of Pakistan. It gives a different perspective on climbing Mt. Everest from "Into Thin Air" and other tragedy oriented accounts. "Blind Corners" focusses on the joy of climbing, the joy of adventure and the joy of life. It is a must read.

Great tales of mountaineering and other adventures
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 3 total.
Review Date: 1998-12-14
Tabin is a FREAK! :-) Blind corners recounts Geoffs many adventures around the globe. An excellent mixture of mountaineering and other adventures; an inspiring book. It'll make you want to quit your job and move to Iran Jayra. The book will keep you wondering how Tabin ever found time to earn his doctorate.

it just doesn't get any better than this
Helpful Votes: 3 out of 4 total.
Review Date: 2003-04-14
Geoff is the 4th person who climbed the 7summits including Carstensz Pyramid. And his book is one of my all-time favorites; this guy is not only an explorer but a crazy adventurer as well. Great stories about the first bungee jump and standing on Carstensz summit without permit, but with penisgourds...

Now there is a 2nd edition! This new and extended edition contains extra chapters about Geoff's amazing cataract surgery projects in the Himalayas and Karakoram.
Also there are new chapters about guiding &, other climbers: George Lowe & Rob Slater (in addition to the part about Lou Reichardt) and some older chapters are updated.

Geoff shows that a life of adventure can be combined with doing great things for others. His cataract project has changed many thousands of people's lives, as they turned from being completely blind to seeing for a few dollars worth of materials and strong determination of Geoff and a few others.

It's hard to say what the biggest adventure is: climbing the east face of Everest or being bitten by a rat while operating in Pakistan without lights, but one thing is sure: "it just doesn't get any better than this".

"Dayenu" & "Kay guarnay" are 2 themes in this book written by an eloquent and smart pragmatic man. Just read it and find out what it means... then head off to your next adventure; who knows, it might just make the world a better place to live in...

But the best thing about this book is that it's available again as it is not to be missed by anyone who has ever felt even the tiniest spark of adventure in his or her brain. Now in paperback, cheaper than ever, but richer than ever as well.

ps: it's 235 pages (not 304 as [stated by Amazon.com]);

Mountaineering
The Chuting Gallery
Published in Mass Market Paperback by Thistle Press (1998-02-01)
Author:
List price: $12.95
New price: $11.75
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Average review score:

This guide rules!
Helpful Votes: 1 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 1998-11-28
Even after skiing most of North Superior on my face, I'm still glad this guide showed me the way. Prudence inspring (with many tales of disaster) this book makes great reading even if you never get it together enough to point your skis down a 60 degree slope.

The best book out there!
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 3 total.
Review Date: 2005-12-02
This book rocks. The author is so friendly - if you go to his website ([...])- he'll send you a signed copy!

Chilling with superb descript and visual clarity........
Helpful Votes: 3 out of 4 total.
Review Date: 1998-12-10
...and just when I thought I was becoming a good skier, I read Andrew's book and realized the depth of technical skill he posses. The Chuting Gallery is an excellant tool to be used by accomplished ski mountaineers to test the grade of their steel. As a guide book, for me, it tells me where not to go.....

this book rules
Helpful Votes: 4 out of 5 total.
Review Date: 1998-12-03
Even after skiing most of the North Face of Superior on my face, I'm still glad to have read this excellent guide. Filled with enough references to inspire caution in even the most hardcore skiers, this is the ultimate conversation piece, even if you never make it off the groomers at Alta.

it's the right thing to do
Helpful Votes: 5 out of 16 total.
Review Date: 1999-09-20
Buy this book, that guy owes a lot of people serious money

Mountaineering
Dawson's Guide to Colorado's Fourteeners, Vol. 1: The Northern Peaks
Published in Paperback by Blue Clover Press (1994-05-01)
Author:
List price: $22.95
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Average review score:

Year Round Guide is Tops
Helpful Votes: 11 out of 11 total.
Review Date: 2000-09-23
I've read seemingly every 14er guide available. Much of the information overlaps as one can imagine. However, what really sets this (and the companion volume as well) one apart is the truly four season information that it provides. Louis gives you ratings for summer and snow climbs as well as ski descents. None of the other 14er guides I've read give you that. These volumes are often compared to Gerry Roach's books which are excellent in their own right. However, in my mind the information in Louis Dawson's guides is better as many of us climb in seasons other than summer!

Must have for Mountaineers!
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 2007-02-07
I can't say enough about this book. The most accurate and most helpful information of all the 14er books. My favorite thing about it is that it provides info for all 4 seasons. Most 14er guidebooks, like Roach's, only provide info for summer hiking, but I'm not willing to sit around 9 months out of the year.

This is THE BOOK to get if you're looking to climb the 14ers. Buy this one first, then cross reference it with some of the others.

Dawson Makes You Get Off Your Duff...
Helpful Votes: 4 out of 4 total.
Review Date: 2002-07-17
... and get out to the mountains he loves.

He was the first person in history to ski down all of Colorado's fourteeners. He's climbed all at least once and many several times. Among his accomplishments are four ascents up the Diamond face of Longs Peak, so it is no surprise that Longs Peak figures prominently in this text. Dawson began climbing at an early age, and has written several other guide books for hikers in Colorado. His illustrations are excellent, and his narratives are brief enough to keep your interest and meaty enough to provide the information most are looking for.

The peakbagger's best friend
Helpful Votes: 5 out of 6 total.
Review Date: 2002-06-21
Having climbed Colorado 14ers for more than 30 years, I've used all available guidebooks. First rule, remember that the info in the book is often wrong -- unless you're willing to think for yourself, avoiding mountains is the best bet. After that, to me Dawson is the best guidebook ever. Roach is good too -- it's good to have both. But in spite of the price difference, Dawson's 2 volumes are well worth it. And please, tread lightly!

a great guide for year round climbing
Helpful Votes: 6 out of 6 total.
Review Date: 1999-04-27
Lou Dawson is incredible, not only does he describe summer routes in this guide but makes one want to get out of their "warm" recliner and conquer some winter and spring routes as well. a must have book for Colorado's 14'ers. While you at it, get Vol 2 as well!

Mountaineering
Desire & Ice: A Search for Perspective Atop Denali
Published in Paperback by National Geographic (2002-11-01)
Author: David Brill
List price: $16.00
New price: $0.02
Used price: $0.01

Average review score:

The Right Way to Climb Denail: The Average Joe's Guide
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2005-08-15
David Brill has recorded exactly how the average person should prepare for the climb and what to expect during it. This is not a unique adventure story. Each year well over a thousand people do exactly what is described in this book. Brill was relatively fit, but inexperienced, but he got himself properly outfittited and prepared to try to conquer the mountain.

His route up the mountain also was not unusual, he chose the West Buttress which is the super highway for guided trips and more than 80% of all climber use it. Even his experiences are not unusual, he takes an average amount of punishment and privations.

All in all, he describes exactly what an average experience would be for a person who sets a goal of summiting McKinley. Of course, this is not an average walk in the park. And Brill makes it painfully obvious that 50% of all climbers fail to make the peak. I think he did a masterful job of keeping their results a secret, right to the end. Until the last, I was just as hopeful and unsure as the climbers probably were. I definitely felt he brought be along on his ordeal (and an average climb is an ordeal) and earned my respect, but I am still very happy to remain below 7500 feet. If you are thinking about doing a guided ascent of the West Buttress, get this book.

A story to live, not just read!
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2003-04-25
In the story of his challenge of Denali, David Brill makes his experience come alive for the reader. This is not a tale that one just reads "ho-hum" and then puts back on the shelf, you LIVE it with him! Brill has the succinct author's talent to bring his life's experiences, and the telling of them, alive in all of his books. Also, this story will encourage anyone to take their personal dreams to fruition in their own lives. Whether you are an outdoor aficionado or not, this book is definitely a worthwhile read.

A guide to guides on Denali...
Helpful Votes: 1 out of 1 total.
Review Date: 2003-10-12
Desire and Ice
David Brill 246p + glossary & Index

David Brill is one of the many male climbers who are in their forties and want to have one last goal before physically retiring, the highest pint of the US and North America and therefore one of the "7 summits": Denali.

This is his account of the decisions leading up to that climb and a detailed description of it. David joins a guided climb of RMI, one of the few allowed guiding companies (Denali is monopolized, no foreigners are allowed to guide) and enters a team of people with similar age and background. Kent, one of the guides, is the youngest being 38 years old.

What follows is a nicely and humorously written account of their climb. He describes the problems with altitude, teamwork, phyical difficulties and more. Brill, who works for the Nat Geo society has a easy way of writing and a good sense of humor and relativation, which makes the book a joy to read.

First I though this was going to be like the 1996 disaster on Everest, where everybody who climbed or was near that mountain at that time wrote a book about it. Nowadays everybody with a PC and a pair of crampons is a writer and too many people write 'amazing accounts' of every mountain on earth.

But Brill's book offers a unique insight into a guided group on Denali. This book will convince some people to go with a group like this with experienced (not always on Denali though!) guides. But just as many people will decide to go without one of the guided companies, who are clearly in it for the money as is painfully clear during the events at high camp where 2 RMI groups meet.

In all a good read for people wanting to climb Denali, but I would urge anyone to climb some other serious mountains first before taking on the 'The High One". This should not be your first of the "7summits" and certainly not be your first glacier trip... In fact my opinion is that if you need guiding on Denali, you first should consider carefully if you are ready to climb it. But this book will teach the observing reader a lot about this consideration.

Brill Got It Right
Helpful Votes: 3 out of 3 total.
Review Date: 2002-12-17
I know Brill. We were on Denali together. He is a better writer than climber, but is no slouch in either area. Desire and Ice captures the essence of ordinary guys trying to stretch and do extraordinary things. For all those wannabes who dream of getting to the top of McKinley, Brill's well written and highly readable book gives hope and encouragement. Train hard, get your skills and techniques down, work as a team, and take care of yourself and your hiking buddies. That's important stuff and Brill devotes his early chapters to how he got ready for the Big Mountain. Yes, on Denali the challenges are many - crevases, sub-zero temperatures, tent-fever, biting winds and independent personalities. You have to deal with all of them. But your greatest challenge is alway found in your own mind ... and your attitude toward what each day brings. Brill captures it all. It was wonderful to stand on North America's highest point with David Brill. And, he is right on about our team. I too would be pleased and proud to climb with Kent and Gary and Joe all the rest of the those "ordinary guys" again. But next time, Clay gets to the top with us.

Great Reading for ALL...not Just an MoutaineeringTale
Helpful Votes: 3 out of 3 total.
Review Date: 2002-12-06
David Brill has written an excellent book about a journey of discovery. It's a great read, no matter what you're fitness level or interest in climbing or the outdoors. Brill's fluid style, at times witty and funny, transports the reader from the couch to the glaciers of Denali in engaging, believable terms. Brill's prose goes well beyond the typical gear and macho you might find in other books about climbing. You'll come away with insight, awe, and incredible satisfaction. Brill is a terrific writer. This book, in my opinion, is better than the best selling "Into Thin Air," about a fatal Everest climb a few years ago. Brill's "Desire and Ice" is much more approachable, because Denali, in climbing circles, is an "everyman's mountain." Difficult and deadly, yes, but more accessible. I am not a mountaineer, but still enjoyed this book thoroughly. I would never give a first, let alone second, thought to such a journey myself, but now, I don't have to, having lived through it with this great book. I'm going to look for other books by this guy. He's simply a great writer.

Mountaineering
Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory and Irvine
Published in Paperback by Mountaineers Books (2001-09)
Authors: Jochen Hemmleb, Larry A. Johnson, Eric R. Simonson, and William E. Nothdurft
List price: $24.95
New price: $15.29
Used price: $3.69
Collectible price: $26.00

Average review score:

Great Read
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2007-11-13
This has to be one of my favorite books. I have read it several times and each time it still captivates my interest!

A book that takes me back in time . . .
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2007-11-01
What a story!

And talk about memories . . . No, I've never been on Mt. Everest - Popocatepetl, 17,887 ft is the highest I've been (on foot) - but I did spend untold hours back in the stacks of the Main Library at the University of Texas in Austin, in the early 1950s, poring over accounts of the English expeditions to Everest (and elsewhere in the Himalaya and Karakoram) in the 1920s and 1930's. Those old thick books with their thick knife-cut pages and stilted or candid photographs made you want to go to Tibet, and something about their musty smell made you want to take a bathroom break. And then get back to what Younghusband and Smythe and Odell and Noel and Norton and Somervell - those subsidiary phantoms within the Everest saga - had to tell.

Those books, and accounts of other climbs (in Europe or Africa or closer to home in the Americas) forced me onto steep rock. I climbed semi-seriously from 1952 until 1958 and desultorily for about fifteen years thereafter. But nothing along the lines of the climbers in Ghosts of Everest: Anker, Hahn, Norton, Politz, Richards. Among others.

The three co-authors - Hemmleb, Johnson, and Simonson - made a wise decision to enhance their story's narrative thrust and coherence by choosing William Nothdurft to put it all together. He did a wonderful job; he's a hell of a writer. The maps and photographs are illuminating, though some of the photos are too strongly backlighted.

A human-interest side-story in the book concerns BBC producer Peter Firstbrook and associate producer Graham Hoyland. Hoyland had championed BBC's support of the Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition of 1999 for more than a year. Hoyland was a former Everest climber and grandnephew of T.H. Somervell of the 1924 Everest expedition. Not until October 1998 (the main party of the expedition ended up arriving in Kathmandu on 18 March 1999) did Hoyland's boss Firstbrook get into the mix with his various bureaucratic ploys and games. Things went along, largely downhill, in fits and starts. In the end the expedition was mounted, but Hoyland was sent home by Firstbrook on a flimsy medical excuse. Firstbrook's insincerity was made manifest when he, Firstbrook, came down with a much more serious medical condition but refused, in spite of the expedition doctor's advice, to go back down to lower altitude. There's also the story of the midstream much-changed legal contract Firstbrook tried to get expedition leader Simonson to sign.

Aargh! But then again, anyone who has tried to negotiate a contract between a private party and an institution, bureaucracy, government, or politician probably knows how downright duplicitous any of the latter can be. Their saving grace is that they are usually pretty dumb. I Googled `Peter Firstbrook' today and see, with some satisfaction and a somewhat patched image of the BBC, that Peter is no longer with them. He evidently shuffled off (or was shuffled off) to another film production outfit, Mosaic, in 2002.

Hey, there are lots of ambitious guys out there. I well remember one day (actually it was 29 July 1957) that Yvon Chouinard grabbed me with "I think I've rediscovered Baxter's Lost Pinnacle! Let's go climb it before someone else does!" And we did, alternating leads. (By luck, since Yvon was a much better climber, he got to lead the final overhang pitch.) For years I had in my collection of climbing hardware a horizontal piton marked `URE' for `Ulf Ram-Erickson,' Baxter's climbing partner - they were often described as "two solo climbers, roped together" - we took off that Pinnacle that day. Sure, Yvon was ambitious, but he wouldn't scheme to crawl up over someone's back.

Typically, in the mountains, it's a world of clear air, hard dark rock, white snow, tiny flowers in moss, and wonderful straightforward people. People like Mallory and Irvine. And like the members of the 1999 Expedition who went up to Everest to find and commemorate them. Ghosts of Everest is their very well told story.

Fascinating Read
Helpful Votes: 0 out of 0 total.
Review Date: 2007-03-26
I was only vaguely familiar with the story of Mallory and Irvine before reading this. Hemmelb does a nice job of interweaving the story of Mallory's 1924 attempt at Everest with that of the 1999 expedition that went in search of his body. For anyone interested in Everest and the history of attempts to climb it, I can recommend this book highly.

A great book that answers some questions but creates more questions.
Helpful Votes: 1 out of 1 total.
Review Date: 2008-01-25
I had never heard of Mallory or Irvine until the day the news mentioned Mallory was found. All these years later I decided to read this book to answer the curiosity I had over them.

I am intrigued with the question of did they reach the summit before they died back in 1924. Many have argued they failed and the authors decided to see if they could answer the debate.

This is a good read as the authors gave accounts of both the climbs of Mallory and Irvine and the Simonson group that went to find them. The book has great details and good photographs throughout. I actually looked at the photos of Mallory several times. Kind of awed for some reason.

The authors are most assuredly in awe of both Mallory and Irvine and it shows in the book. Especially when they found Mallory.

You get the feeling they really want them to have made the summit and they offer some convincing arguments. Such as some of Mallory's notes suggest they took more oxygen bottles then thought. The location of an Oxygen bottle showed they were further along then thought and the possibility that Odell who commented on seeing them at the second step might have actually seen them on the third.

Does the book prove they made it? Not really. There is no serious proof. The fabled camera might answer it but it is thought to be with Irvine who was never found. There is also the claim of leaving a photograph of Mallory's wife on the summit and it was not found on Mallory's body. One thing the authors mention however, is that they didn't find proof to suggest the failed in their attempt so the question remains.

Overall you might find yourself hoping they did made it as it's a classic tale of man against the elements.

I found myself hoping they did.

DID THEY OR DIDN'T THEY?...
Helpful Votes: 16 out of 16 total.
Review Date: 2002-06-08
This is a beautifully and lavishly illustrated, textually rich book. Its pages demand the reader's undivided attention and are sure to enthrall all mystery lovers, Everest aficionados, nostalgia junkies, history buffs, and climbing enthusiasts. This book is sure to provide the reader with many hours of enjoyment.

The book chronicles the search for George Mallory and Andrew Irvine by the 1999 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition. It juxtaposes the dramatic turn of events during their expedition with those of the 1924 British Everest Expedition which saw Mallory and Irvine attempt a summit climb, only to disappear into the mists of Everest, never to be seen again. It makes for a spell binding narrative, as past events are woven through present day ones.

The 1999 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition was a meticulously well prepared and well organized venture. With its discovery of George Leigh Mallory's body, it enjoyed much success. The research and analysis that went into its ultimate, well thought out conclusions were comprehensive and fascinating, with its strong reliance upon forensics and deductive reasoning. Their reconstruction of Mallory's and Irvine's last climb is riveting. Unfortunately, the ultimate question still remains unanswered. Did they or did they not reach the summit of Mount Everest back in 1924?

The beautiful photographs of the personal effects found upon Mallory's person underscore a certain poignancy about the discovery of Mallory's well preserved body. The photographs which memorialize this discovery are amazingly lovely and tasteful, considering its subject matter, and hauntingly illustrate the finality with which Everest may deal with mountaineers, no matter how accomplished.

The photographs also highlight how ill equipped for the harsh climatic conditions were the early Everest expeditions. It is amazing, and a credit to those early expeditioners' courage and fortitude, in braving such an inhospitable and harsh terrain with the inadequate clothing and equipment available to them at the time. Mallory and Irvine were certainly intrepid explorers!

This book is a fitting tribute to two men who sought to make a historic summit and, in their attempt, would forever be a part of Everest.

Mountaineering
Glacier Mountaineering: An Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, Revised Edition
Published in Paperback by Climbing Magazine (2005-03-01)
Author: Andy Tyson
List price: $16.95
New price: $16.95

Average review score:

Best Overall Guide Currently Available
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 2 total.
Review Date: 2005-09-01
This is a excellent book full of safe practices, practical tips, and clear illustrations. In my opinion, this book is much better than the "classic" texts such as "Freedom of the Hills" and Selters' "GT&CR." It is also better than the Falcon Guide "Glaciers".

What sets this apart is the terrific illustrations of very practical systems/practices. It also contains innumerable tips that I learned only as lore handed down over 20+ years of mountaineering. I now teach glacier travel and crevasse rescue within a Mountain Rescue unit, and this book will become mandatory for all such sessions going forward.

Awesome Book
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 5 total.
Review Date: 2001-05-24
Great book with awesome pictures that help explain complex concepts about glacier travel. I'd buy this before Freedom of the Hills.

Manditory reading for all glacier travelers!
Helpful Votes: 2 out of 5 total.
Review Date: 2001-01-05
I am the illustrator and co-author of this instructional book. This may seem like shameless self promotion, and I guess it is - but I am really proud of this totally cool book! There's two years of hard work crammed into these pages. Besides the all the drawings, I've done a whole lot of hands on work on glaciers in Alaska, Canada & the Cascades. Both Andy and I teach glacier rescue skills for an outdoor school (NOLS), and we've spent a lot of time trouble shooting and simplifying the complex systems you'll need know before setting foot on a glacier. Here's the bottom line - GLACIERS ARE DANGEROUS! Make sure you are educated (with this up-to-date book) if you plan on any kind of glacier travel! If nothing else, there are over 200 easy to read, step by step, technical illustrations that are fun to look at - and very informative!

Great book to "learn the ropes"
Helpful Votes: 3 out of 3 total.
Review Date: 2003-09-03
This was a great book, short, concise and extremely descriptive. A lot of the descriptions for a knot or setup of a pulley system is covered in Freedom of the Hills and other books. But in any other book, you will be disappointed to only find a description, leaving the reader wondering...hmm..Now where would I use this? In the Illustrated Guide, not only do they provide great drawings and demonstrations for everything mentioned, but they also talk about when, and why. After reading this book I have felt so much more confidence in my level of knowledge about glacier travel. It's the perfect book for those wishing to learn or to teach others.

Awesome Book
Helpful Votes: 3 out of 4 total.
Review Date: 2001-05-24
As a beginner/intermediate climber this book covers all the necessary glacier-related issues. The pictures are great and help make complex concepts very easy to understand. Much better than the traditional texts (e.g. Freedom of the Hills) for Glacier Travel.


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